Ireland's cheesemaking renaissance has been quietly underway for four decades, producing some of Europe's most interesting artisan cheeses. From the washed-rind intensity of Durrus to the buttery depth of Coolea, Irish farmhouse cheeses are finally getting the international recognition they deserve. Here is our guide to the ones worth tracking down, and how to pair them for maximum pleasure.
The modern Irish farmhouse cheese movement began in the 1970s and 1980s when a handful of makers -- many of them non-Irish, drawn to Ireland's exceptional milk -- started producing washed-rind and semi-hard cheeses in the continental tradition. Today there are over 50 artisan cheesemakers across the island, and the quality is extraordinary. Coolea, made in County Cork, is modeled on Gouda but has developed its own personality over 40 years. Aged versions develop crunchy tyrosine crystals and a caramel depth that pairs beautifully with fruit chutneys and aged whiskey. Durrus, from the Sheep's Head Peninsula, is a washed-rind cheese with a pungent aroma that belies a relatively mild, mushroomy flavor. It melts brilliantly -- try it on sourdough with a smear of honey. Cashel Blue, Ireland's most famous blue, is creamier and less aggressive than many continental blues, making it an excellent entry point for people who find Roquefort too intense. Crumble it over roasted beetroot salad or stir it into a creamy pasta sauce.